If you plan to move the chunnel, I recommend cutting a minimum of three 2-foot cross pieces from the optional 8-foot 1-by-3 board in the materials list, and fastening them across the bottom of the frame to keep everything solid.īecause we sometimes house our chickens in the chunnel overnight, we decided to cut some old wire shelving we had on hand and stick it in the ground along the edges of the chicken tunnel to prevent predators from digging underneath. Then, screw the 1-by-3 boards into the end caps. Continue attaching the mesh along the perimeter in this fashion to create the tunnel shape. Center it over the ends, and affix it to the top of each end cap with a large washer and a screw. With the shorter 1-by-3 boards facing in, drape the wire mesh over the ends. Once you cut out one end (and double-check that it fits the wire mesh), copy it onto the other piece of plywood. A simple way to accomplish this is to cut a piece of string 4 feet long, use it to create the curve, then trace and cut it out. The critical part is to make sure the perimeter of the curve is 4 feet long to match the width of the wire mesh when you wrap it over. The ends will be about 22 inches wide by 19 inches tall, cut into an oblong shape. Now, you’ll need to make the ends of the chicken tunnel out of plywood pieces, which will help shape and reinforce the run. It also creates a ledge to help secure the frame to the ground. This added security will prevent raccoons from ripping the staples out. Next, attach the two uncut 1-by-3s over the wire mesh to sandwich and secure it. Leave at least 3/4 inch of mesh overhanging at each end of the boards. With the help of another person, roll out the wire mesh over the boards, stapling it even with the outside edge of the boards as you go. Lay them parallel to one another 4 feet apart. You’ll begin by cutting 1 1/2 inches off the ends of two of the 1-by-3 boards. We chose to build ours 12 feet long, so we used 12-foot 1-by-3 boards and 12 feet of wire mesh. The chunnel can be as long as you want, but you’ll have to attach it to a wooden base, so it’s easiest to match it to a common length of lumber.
To make a secure chunnel, you’ll start with a 4-foot-wide roll of 16-gauge, galvanized wire mesh. 2 pieces of 3/4-inch plywood, about 22 by 19 inches each.1 piece exterior-grade 1-by-3 lumber, 8 feet, optional.4 pieces of exterior-grade 1-by-3 lumber of desired length.4-foot-wide roll of 16-gauge, 1/2 inch, galvanized wire mesh.Construct a Movable Chicken Tunnel Tools & Materials: In just one day, they cleared our garden path to bare dirt. Chickens are tireless workers who love to scratch (it’s basically all they do), and are great help when it comes to controlling grass, weeds, and bugs. Movable chicken runs, such as a chicken tunnel (also called a “chunnel”) for garden pathways, or a round “fertilization station” to go around fruit trees, solve many of these problems. At this point, you really don’t have a choice but to find a way to contain your wayward flock. They may even try to range themselves right into your house because those chickens are no fools they know where the food and treats come from. Your chickens could even decide to range on top of your car, in your garden, or in the middle of the road. At some point, you’re guaranteed to accidentally step in it right before you hop in your car or truck and wonder, “What the heck is that nasty smell?”
First, if given a choice, your chickens will spend at least some of their time ranging on your front porch, leaving a welcome mat of droppings for anyone who comes to visit.
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